Wolfgang Gullich Takes Direct Action

Written in Stone: Climbing History

13d, 14a, 14b. (8b to 8c) Wolfgang Gullich was the first to climb them all. Now, with Action Directe, he was set to raise standards once again.

In the Waldkopf region of the Frankenjura, Wolfgang left us his most enduring legacy: a 16-18 move masterpiece through single and two-finger pockets and powerful moves out an impossibly steep limestone bulge.

But it could have gone quite differently. He could have stayed in the alpine, free climbing those freezing big walls in Pakistan. Or it’s possible that the line that became Action Directe may have been less, well, direct. Or, if we believe his friends, he might have just stayed in the cafe.

But we know how it went. He detoured from Pakistan. He didn’t stay in the cafe. And he would put bolts into the direct line through that limestone bulge.

In late August, 1992, Wolfgang Gullich fell asleep at the wheel on the Autobahn, leaving a massive hole in the climbing world, and becoming the biggest “I wonder what if…?” in climbing history.

Check out more here.

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